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Naples

In the shadow the Vesuvius tourism’s roots run deep: on the imprints of great greek columns refined aristocrats and roman emperors built their sumptuous villas and oasis all along the shoreline of the Gulf. It is not a coincidence that at the begining of this third millennium the peculiar magic of this civilisation continues to generate new sources of amazement: the recovery of age old monuments and traditions – folklore, gastronomy, genuine cultivation – that were thought irreparably lost, events and shows worthy of the great international circuit, new fodder for artistic and scientific research.

The artistic treasure of Naples to visit are, in fact, to many to count: the historical centre, a patrimony under the tutelage of UNESCO, the palaces, churches, catacombs and underground passageways, the Archaeological Museum, the places of medieval and renaissance power amassed around the Castel Nuovo and Royal Palace, the unforgettable waterfront from Castel dell’Ovo to Posillipo. The hilly area of Vomero offers masterfully restored buildings like the Capodimonte Royal Palace and the Certosa (monastery) of San Martino, museum collections amongst the most important in the world. A trip through the twentieth century city takes you, among the notable emerging urban and architectural sights, to the rationalist Mostra d’Oltremare, with its park, sports complex and exhibition space, to Città della Scienza (Science City) near by. Science is also witness to the recovery of industrial archaeological complexes and the originality of a scientific tradition that renews itself. Unusual and surprising is the exploration of the new homes of contemporary art: monumental structures like the PAN, Palazzo delle Arti Napoli, the MADRE, Museo d’Arte Contemporanea Donnaregina (Donnaregina Contemporary Arts Museum), and the unique artistry of the metro stations that evidence the original horizons of farseeing cultural politics. Naples, in the final sum, remains, deep in its roots, even with all the difficulties and contradictions inherent to all big metropolitan cities, an extraordinary place to live, admire, and enjoy with all the senses: for the depth of the art and civilisation that has idelibly marked its history; for the mild climate that accompanies day and night the shows, musical and theatrical events, exhibitions, fairs and religious gatherings; for the gourmand possibilites to search out the age old culinary tradition, the seafood and the unique typical products (buffalo mozzarella, pizza, Docg wine, varied and refined pastries) in all their local translations, or for finding fine hidden little shops where craftsmen still ply their wares.

The origins of the city are lost in time and charming legends. The most tenable hypothese puts the beginnings of the city in the 9th century BC, when the greeks colonised the Gulf on their way up to the high Thyrrenean mineral deposits. In 326 it was declared a Roman colony. After the fall of the Roman Empire, Naples became the capital of an important Duchy, that namaged to stave off the invading Longobards. In 1137 the Duchy fell into the hands of the Normans, who favoured cultural integration. The Port of Naples became the most important in the world. After the death of Frederick II of Svevia, Carlo D’Angiò made his triumphal entrance to Naples in 1266. Power passed into the hands of Alfonso d’Aragona in 1442, after a long war that brought the city to its knees. In a short time, however, the situation changed: important civil engineering (the construction of sewage conducts and streets) and restoration works were undertaken (at Castel Nuovo the Triumph Arch was built). Other works (like the opening of via Toledo, the construction of the Spanish Quarters – formerly barracks – and the restoration of the Chiaia Riviera) were completed during the following two centuries during the Spanish rule (1503-1707), up to the arrival of the Bourbons (1734), who reigned the Kingdom of Naples until 1860 when Italy was finally united. Our journey of discovery of the city begins in the historic core which preserves ancient greek-roman imprints, to continue with the places of power of the medieval-renaissance period concentrated around the Castel Nuovo and Royal Palace. We will then follow along the waterfront from the Castel dell’Ovo to Posillipo, to end up on the green hills of Capodimonte and Vomero.

THINGS TO SEE

National Archaeological Museum
Castel dell’Ovo
Capodimonte Museum
Maschio Angioino
Umberto I gallery
San Carlo Theatre
Piazza del Plebiscito
Royal Palace

National Archaeological Museum
The most important museum of classical archaeology in the world. Charles of Bourbon put the largest art collection in Italy, the Farnese collection inherited by his mother Elisabeth, into this building (the old “Study Palace” or university). Over the years the largest archaeological collection of all time, relics from the city and from the villas buried under the ashes of Vesuvius in 79 BC, was brought here. The most important collection of the museum is that of the mosaics, paintings, jewellery and objects recovered from the buried vesuvian homes. A collection unmatched peer in the world that attracts, needless to say, millions of visitors. Another highlight is the classical sculpture collection, some roman copies of Greek originals, amongst which the celebrated Farnese sculptures (the Bull, the Hercules and dozens of others). The cameo and cut gem collection, which includes the extraordinary Farnese Cup, is also very rich. The vast epigraph collection includes over 2,000 pieces representing all of the languages once spoken in Campania (from Greek to Oscan, Etruscan to Latin). The Egyptian collection is only second in importance in Italy to that of Turin. There is a section dedicated to the Papyrus Villa, the famous roman house in Herculaneum that brought to light so many relics, amongst which the celebrated statues in bronze and marble. The Secret Cabinet is a part of the museum that houses a 19th century collection of Greek and Roman objects considered “obscene” at the times, reserved only for authorized visitors. It includes now sculptures, frescoes, mosaics, amulets, oil-lamps and graffiti with erotic themes from the digs at Pompeii.

Castel dell’Ovo
The profile of the coast is dominated by the massive tuff wall of the Castel dell’Ovo, the oldest of the city, that sits on the little islet of Megaris facing the famous Santa Lucia quarter. Now connected to land by a small bridge, the island was chosen by the roman patrician Licinius Lucullus as site for his new villa. It was transformed into a convent by the Saint Basil monks in about 492 AD. Under the Normans in the 12th century it became a fortress. The Hall of the Columns, so called because it re-used the powerful columns of the original villa, must be visited. From the cannon terrace, on the high part of the castle, you can enjoy a marvellous view of the gulf. Under the walls of the castle is Borgo Marinari, constructed in the 1800’s, it was originally meant to house fishermen, their boats and their families. It now houses nautical clubs, restaurants, bars and trendy night spots.

The name of Castel dell’Ovo (Castle of the Egg) derives from a legend tied to the poet Virgil, to whom the medieval Neapolitans attributed magical powers. One of the wizard’s talismans was said to be hidden in the castle: an egg preserved in a jug and locked in an iron cage. The castle would never crumble as long as the egg remained intact.

Capodimonte Museum
From Camaldoli, going down along Viale Colli Aminei, you arrive to Capodimonte. The name derives from the late latin “Caput de Monte” (top of the mount) and clearly indicates its position: a hill on the highest part of the City. Here rises the Royal Palace of Capodimonte, surrounded by a vast park. Charles of Bourbon, a dedicated hunter, wanted to construct a hunting lodge here. After having done so, he had it enlarged to house the precious Farnese collections. The building, designed by Antonio Medrano, was finished only in 1839. Located in the immense park are the hunting lodge of Vittorio Emanuele II, a small lodge known as “of the Queen”, the Chapel of San Gennaro, the building of the old 1737 porcelain factory of Charles of Bourbon, the hermitage of the Cappuccini monks and the Fagianeria (pheasant breeding facility). Today, the Royal Palace is home to the National Museum of Capodimonte, one of the most important in the world for painting and the decorative arts. The main nucleus of the Museum is the Farnese Collection, started by Pope Paul III and inherited by Charles’ mother Elisabeth Farnese. The picture gallery has more than 200 masterpieces: Masaccio, Botticelli, Raphael, Ribera, Titian, Mantegna, Correggio, El Greco, Lorenzo Lotto, Parmigianino, Carracci, and Bruegel. There are also two preparative drawings by Raphael for the ‘Segnatura Room’, and by Michelangelo for the Pauline Chapel in the Vatican. Also exceptional is the gallery of 13th-19th century Neapolitan painting: the Saint Ludovico of Tolosa by Simone Martini, the evocative Flagellation by Caravaggio, and again the works of Ribera, Luca Giordano, and Francesco Solimena. The section dedicated to the 1800’s is rich with the School of Posillipo painters, from Anton Smick Pitloo to Giacinto Gigante, and the masters of Naturalism, like the Palizzis. The many artists of the late 1800’s and early 1900’s – from Domenico Morelli to Vincenzo Migliaro – complete the artistic panorama. The contemporary section is also renewed by the presence of artists such as Alberto Burri, Andy Warhol, Carlo Alfano and Mimmo Paladino. The Museum holds other surprises: the Historic Apartment, with the porcelain sitting room of Queen Maria Amalia, for example. The collection of decorative arts is one of the richest in all of Italy with unique works like the precious Farnese Box and the wall tapestries of d’Avalos, and the exceptional porcelain works like the Aurora Cart by Filippo Tagliolini.

Maschio Angioino
Castel Nuovo (named so as to distinguish it from the older royal residences - Castel dell’Ovo and Castel Capuano) is also known as Maschio Angioino.
The impressive fortress, on which work was begun in 1279 by Charles I of Anjou but subsequently modified by the Aragonese, has a trapezoid base and is surrounded by a moat where the foundations of the five cylindrical towers stand.
The Triumph Arch marks the entrance to the castle and is its main ornament. It was erected to commemorate the triumphal entrance to the city by Alfonso of Aragon in 1443.
The magnificent sculpted reliefs represent the best finest examples of Renaissance sculpture in the south.
Inside the castle is the Palatine Chapel, the only building that still has its original look, and the extraordinary Barons’ Hall. The Civic Museum here was inaugurated in 1992.
Castel Nuovo dominates the centre of piazza Municipio. At the high end of the square San Giacomo Palace rises, seat of the City of Naples; it incorporates the 16th century San Giacomo degli Spagnoli Church. Behind the altar rests the magnificent tomb of the Viceroy Pedro da Toledo.

Umberto I gallery (1887-1890)
Above has a splendid iron and glass covering 57 meters high, and below an elegant inlaid marble floor. There are shops, cafès and bookstores on the inside. Santa Brigida Church is part of the complex and has a beautiful fresco called Heaven, by Luca Giordano, in its dome.

San Carlo Theatre
Inaugurated on November 4, 1737, and named after its patron Charles of Bourbon, is the oldest opera house in the world. The building, partially destroyed by fire in 1816, was restored by Antonio Niccolini, the designer of its façade. In the early 1800’s the San Carlo Theatre lived through one of its most glorious seasons ever thanks to the impresario Domenico Barbaja who commissioned works by musicians such as Gioachino Rossini and Gaetano Donizetti.

Piazza del Plebiscito
Opens up, the largest of the city, spectacular backdrop of cultural events and concerts. It is characterised by the profile of the San Francesco di Paola Church, with its neoclassical colonnade and its Pantheon of Rome inspired interior.

Royal Palace
At the centre of the square the two great statues of Charles of Bourbon (work of Antonio Canova) and Ferdinand I on horseback face the Royal Palace. Construction was begun in the early 1600’s based on a project by Domenico Fontana. Enriched by Joachim Murat and Carolina Bonaparte with neoclassical embellishments and decorations, some from the Tuileries, it was damaged in 1837 by fire, and restored by Gaetano Genovese.
To visit the priceless interior cross over the honour courtyard and enter the Historical Living Quarters Museum (30 rooms on one floor) which has preserved the original furniture and décor. The monumental staircase of coloured marble inlay and the Small Court Theatre, a ballroom transformed in 1768 by Fernando Fuga into a gracious Rococo ambience, are beautiful. In another part of the palace the National Library, with its more than million and a half volumes and several priceless medieval codices, can be found. The famous papyrus of Herculaneum are preserved here.